California wine divides into two camps—the established commercial routes of Napa and Sonoma, and the wild west of everything else. As we broaden our wine-drinking horizons, we learn that low-key pioneers with bold, confident dreams are not just a memory of the early days of the gold rush. Enter the wine-soaked world of Michael David winery in Lodi, California, the reputed “Zinfandel capital of the world”.